Clutch Kit Install Instructions

Most 1981-1995 Pickup/4Runner

Click here to download instructions (PDF File, 744 KB)

Most 1995.5-2004 Tacoma/4Runner/T100/Tundra

Special Clutch Kit Notes for 3.4-liter applications

As with all our products, proper installation is assumed by the customer. It is your responsibility to install our clutch components properly into your application. You should always follow Toyota's Factory Service Manual that matches your exact application when installing our clutch kit.

Our Clutch Kit is famous due to our own specific parts and assembly. No other kit on the market is designed for Rock Crawling like our Heavy Duty kits are. Because we have instructed manufactures to follow Marlin's own specification that he has perfected since the 1980s, components are mixed and matched per each kit creating a unique experience based on our design. Therefore, regardless if the clutch disk supplied in your kit is marked flywheel side ("FW SIDE"), you MUST follow Toyota's installation directions for your own application and use the proper disk orientation specific to your application.

For example, if our disk we sent to you for your 3.4-liter 5VZ-FE Tacoma/4Runner/T100/Tundra is marked as "FW SIDE", you must follow the Factory Specifications which places the raised flange side of the disk into your flywheel regardless of this marking. The disk can be installed backwards (facing away from the flywheel) and the truck can be driven this way. But because the release bearing will push the pressure plate fingers into the incorrectly installed and backward-facing raised flange of the disk, it will cause the disk to undergo forward lateral flex which will greatly accelerate disk wear resulting in premature disk failure. Marlin Crawler cannot be held responsible for improper installation of clutch components.

Please follow the below diagram to properly position your clutch disk as per Toyota's own specification. Click on the below image for a detailed view.

This is a direct scan from a Toyota Factory Service Manual (FSM). Click for detailed view

Click here to download instructions (PDF File, 3.52 MB)

Additional troubleshooting and exclusive tips from Marlin Crawler

• Under normal conditions, the slave cylinder will move the clutch fork by approximately 5/8-inch for full clutch engagement.
• If the clutch is unable to engage, check that the Master Cylinder Push Rod is properly adjusted. This issue is common if the Master Cylinder was also changed at the same time as the installation of our clutch kit. The reason for this is if the threaded push rod of the Master Cylinder extends too far, then the piston inside the Master Cylinder may be unable to return to its natural position resulting in a constant hydraulic pressure inside the clutch system. This hydraulic pressure is often confused with a system that seems to have air pockets despite bleeding the system numerous times.
  • The easiest way to test this is to push the fork with your palm into and towards the slave cylinder. If the system is in a normal unpressurized state, you'll be able to collapse the slave cylinder plunger back into the slave cylinder which will displace clutch fluid back into the reservoir. If you are unable to collapse the plunger back into the slave cylinder, then the system is under a constant pressure. Check the clutch pedal adjustment to ensure the threaded push rod is able to retract far enough away from the master cylinder such that the piston inside is able to return to its normal, unactivated position.
• ALWAYS resurface or replace your flywheel, and ensure the stepping (difference in friction-surface to pressure-plate-mounting-surface) is at least the Toyota-recommended 20-thousandths of an inch (0.020").
  • A smaller step results in a decreased disengagement force and therefore a lower load rating.
  • If you have too small of a step, then the clutch will never disengage; The engine will never be connected to the transmission input shaft.
  • A larger step results in an increased disengagement force and therefore a higher load rating.
  • If you have too large of a step, then the clutch will never engage; The engine will always be connected to the transmission input shaft.
  We have tested a wide variety of different flywheel stepping with our clutch kits and have concluded that a 26-thosandths of a step is ideal for improved clutch performance and prolonged life of our kits, at the expense of an initially tighter clutch feel.
  • Explanation: After the clutch has been 'breaked in', it will then act like a new clutch: The friction / disengagement point of the clutch will occur in the stroke of the pedal at a point closer to the floor. The difference is that our clutch kit, in combination with a 0.026-inch flywheel stepping, will have an engagement characteristic after being broken in as if it was a brand new unused clutch kit.
    • The downside to this is that initially you'll have to press the pedal all the way to the floor in order to fully engage the clutch.
    • The upside is that after the clutch has many miles on it and the disc has worn thin, the pressure plate will be closer to the friction-surface and will therefore A) have a greater remaining clamping force (hence higher performance) and B) you will get more miles out of the clutch before the friction / disengagement point becomes too high in the stroke of the clutch pedal that the clutch becomes unusable (hence a prolonged life).