Performing a solid axle conversion on 1986 - 1995 Toyota Pickup's and 4Runners can be completed in just one weekend with the right tools at hand. To do the conversion you will need normal hand tools, a torch, grinder and welder. You will need to obtain an axle from a 1979-1985 Toyota Pickup or 4Runner. Below are some of the 110+ items included with our solid axle swap kit:

• High Steer Crossover Steering
• 4" Lift, Long Travel Leaf Springs 
• Front Spring Hanger
• Frame Tubes & Jigs
• Spring Shackles
• Front Flip Kit
• Bumpstops
• Shock Hoops w/Braces
• 12" Bilstein 5125 Shocks
• Brake Rotors
• 3 Stainless Braided Brake Lines
• Heavy Duty Steering Stabilizer
• Front Wheel Spacers
• ....Click here for Complete List of Parts

Optional

• Ring and Pinion Gears
• Locking Differential
• Knuckle Rebuild Kit
• Differential Skid Plate

Axle Prep

Any Pickup/4Runner axle from 1979 to 1985 can be used. Axles made in 1979 do not have any gusset at all along the bottom. Axles made from 1980 - 1983 have a gusset on the bottom that goes from the pumpkin to just short of the driver side spring perch. Many people choose to use 1984 - 1985 axles as they have a full length gusset that goes all the way over to the end of the axle on the driver side, this design in the strongest most sought after.

The stock gear ratio found in these axles is 4.10. This ratio works well for 27"-31" tires. We recommend 4.88 gears for use with 33" tires and 5.29 gears for 35" and larger tires. We do not recommend the use of 5.71 gears. The stock 3rd member is known as a 4Cyl unit. There are two other, stronger options to consider for the front axle. A rear 3rd member from an 1988-1995 V6 pickup can be used and is a good bit stronger than the 4Cyl unit. Another option is the FJ80 high pinion 3rd member. This is the strongest unit of the three and also has the added advantage of a top mounted pinion, increasing ground clearance under the front drive shaft. The high pinion FJ80 3rd member also helps with drive shaft U joint angle. When setting up the 3rd member we recommend you install some type of locking differential such as a Detroit or ARB locker for added traction.

Once the 3rd member is setup and ready to install, dissemble the axle knuckles and remove both inner axle assemblies. Using a torch cut off the torque rod bracket on the top left side of the axle and grind smooth. Install the 3rd member and reinstall knuckles. Remove the stock steering arms and replace them with the high steer arms (reuse original steering arm shims). The arm with two holes goes on the right side, and the arm with one hole goes on the left side of the truck. When reassembling the axle consider replacing the knuckle bearings and seals. Thread FJ80 ends into tie rod and drag link. The tie rod is the longer of the two rods. Note the left side jam nuts and the left side of the rods are identified with marks. The right sides are not marked. Install the tie rod into the left side arm hole and the rear of the right side arm hole. Leave jam nuts loose at this time.

The brakes on solid axles are smaller and the rotors are the solid non-vented style. The combination is inferior to brakes used on 1986 and up trucks. Upgrading the brakes is simple. Just replace the rotors with vented Land Cruiser rotors and bolt on your 1986 - 1995 IFS calipers.

IFS Removal

Next remove the front differential, axles, idler arm, tie rod, A-arms, sway bars and torsion bars. If using a crossover steering kit that includs a pitman arm, remove the stock pitman arm from steering box using a pitman arm puller. Unbolt tow hooks from the front corners of the frame.
Using a torch, cut off the A-arm mounting brackets. Once cut off, use a grinder to remove the remnants of the brackets. Grind until frame is completely smooth and flat. Using a welder fill in and grind smooth any nicks in the frame caused by torching off the brackets. Part of the motor mounts will be cut off when removing the brackets.
To the right are the IFS brackets after they have been removed from the frame. A good fabricator can typically remove the IFS and related brackets in about 8 hours with the proper tools.

Front Spring Hanger

 

The front spring hanger can be mounted two ways. When using our 1.5" longer than stock springs we recommend mounting the hanger with it's spring mounts in the forward position as shown in the photo.  Using a floor jack, place the hanger under the frame with the leading edge of the hanger flush with the front of the frame. Center the hanger left to right. Weld the spring hanger in place. Weld provided frame gussets between the front hanger and frame as shown below.

Frame Tubes and Jigs

 

 

To mount the rear of the front springs, frame tubes are installed into the frame. Use the frame jigs to properly position the tubes. Each frame tube jig has an arrow and "R" or "L" label. The jig labeled R is for the Right side (passenger) and the jig labeled L is for the left side (driver). The arrow points toward the front of the truck.

Place the frame jig onto the frame and center the jig in the body mount. Notice the jig may slide front to back a bit. Position the jig so that the center of the jig hole is centered between the body mount plates. Using felt pen mark both the inside and outside of both frame rails. Using a torch or plasma cutter, cut the hole marked by the jigs. Slide frame tubes into frame and center the frame tubes in the frame. Now push each frame tube out 1/4". Now the tubes are properly positioned for welding. Fully weld frame tubes into frame.

Bolt on springs using supplied bushings, bolts and shackles.

Install Axle

This is very important as Bump Stops must be used to prevent damage to the springs, and to ensure proper spring life! Weld bumpstops onto the top of front flip plates. Place the prepared front axle under the truck and lift into position using a floor jack.  Install front U-bolt flip kit using supplied U-bolts. Square U-bolts are supplied for the left side of 84 -85 style axles. Round U-bolts are used for earlier axles. From inside cab, center steering wheel. and install drag link into pitman arm on left side and the front steering arm hole on the right. Torque pitman arm nut to 130 ft/lbs. Torque U-bolts to 90 ft/lbs. U-bolt tops may be cut off flush with nuts. Retorque U bolts after 100 miles and at every oil change (or each 5,000 miles). Torque the castle nuts on all four of the FJ80 rod ends and install cotter pins.

Before installing shock hoops, remove jacks and stands. Settle springs by driving a short distance. With the truck on level ground, position shock hoops on frame near the top of the fender opening. The upper shock mount should be directly over the lower shock mount on the axle. Tack weld shock hoops into position. Test fit shocks and measure shaft length. The ideal position for shock hoops is such that 60% of the shock is in the shock tube. Adjust the shock hoops up or down until 5" of the shock tube is exposed with the shocks installed. Note it may be necessary to drill out shock mount bushings before mounting shocks. Once shock hoops have been positioned remove shocks and install shock hoop braces. It will be necessary to cut and trim braces prior to installation. Braces can be installed in several different positions. The ideal position is from the top of the frame rail to the back of the shock mount. Finish weld hoops and braces in place. Reinstall shocks.

Notes:

• Do not weld with shocks near your work, weld spatter will damage chrome shock tubes and seals, resulting in loss of oil.

• Install shocks with the "can" up and the shaft down.

Bumpstops

Using 2" X 4" square tubing, create bumpstop landing points on the frame. These should be positioned so that there is a 3" gap between the bumpstops and their contact points.

  

Steering Stabilizer

The steering stabilizer welds onto the right side frame rail and the other end bolts to the drag link using the U-bolts included. Center the steering wheel. Extend the stabilizer out to 1/2 of it's stroke. Bolt steering stabilizer onto drag link using supplied hardware.

 

Front End Alignment

With the Tie Rod jam nuts loose simply turn the tie rod to change the tow setting. The tow should be set so that it's 1/16" to 1/8" tow in. The drag link can also be adjusted in a similar fashion. It's recommended that 3/4 or more of the tie rod end threads be inside the tubing.  Once the rods lengths are set, the jam nuts can be tightened.

 

Notes:

We recommend High Angle Drivelines for the best heavy duty drive lines at great prices!

 

As you drive and wheel your truck you can expect the springs to settle in about 1". In some cases the springs may not settle evenly. Each kit includes a 3/8" spring pad that can be used to level out the front end. If needed the pad is placed between the leaf spring and axle. The pad should be welded to the axle across the front and back. Installation of the pad will lift fender to tire clearance 3/4" on the side it is installed on.